Tuesday, 16 October 2012

Autumn Days

One of the things that we enjoyed during our last stay here was witnessing the change of seasons. Here, the annual changes seem more pronounced than at home where winter is sometimes viewed as a small hiatus between summers. 

When we arrived back in mid August the bloom of summer was nearing its end and the fields of baked dry earth was evidence of how hot summer can be. The sunflowers had mostly finished their glorious show of yellow and had their heads bowed as if in prayer ; the wheat had been harvested and only the dry stalks and stubble were left but the vines were a show of verdant green with masses of bunches of white or purple grapes.

The chateau itself was also cloaked in vibrant green of the ivy and virginia creeper that adorns some of its walls while the lawns were dry and brown in many places and the flowers in the garden were past their best showing. 

Now, over two months on, the colours around the chateau and in the fields beyond its walls are the colours of autumn. It is not an autumn palette as one finds in some places such as in the South Island or in the states of Connecticut and New England, rather it is a palette of more muted colour.


About 15 minutes from the chateau 


Along with the change of colour come other signs that point to the change of season.


The temperatures are slowly getting cooler although there are still days of Indian summer weather which are getting fewer and fewer;  Monsieur Gaspard - our chateau squirrel has been seen again and the moles are on the move with little mole hills reappearing in the lawn. These will continue to appear right through the winter as moles seem to be notorious at evading any human attempt to thwart their progress. For such little creatures they certainly can make their presence known.








Near by woods seen from the chateau tower
Another sign and often a noise that indicates a change of weather is La Chasse. Frenchmen are hunters and autumn is the beginning of the hunting season. It starts on Sundays at first, but soon it will be every day. The sound of gunshots resound over the village as hunters out in the woods shoot at ????. There are rabbits, deer and apparently wild pigs around. To start with it is a bit unnerving to see camouflaged men with shotguns seemingly wandering around and through the fields. If they have dogs you can hear them as the dogs wear bells on their collars. 





Across the road from the chateau

The view from the tower










Fields from the gates of the chateau





In the fields around the chateau and beyond, farmers are busy preparing for crops to be planted before the winter comes. The last of the sunflowers have been harvested. The earth has been tilled and ploughed and rich dark brown fields replace the sandy coloured stubble of wheat and the dry stalks of the sunflowers. Nothing remains of the summer crops.



Most of the vines are now stripped of their grapes and the leaves are beginning to change colour and starting to fall. Before too long the vineyards will be rows of bare vines awaiting pruning that will happen in the depth of winter.









Knowing very little about farming of any kind, I do not know what crops will be sown this season. Except in one field, in fact the first field as you leave the village, onions have been planted. Whole onions, rows and rows, lie uncovered. I presume they will be covered in due course - but as I said I am not a farmer! However I do know that these onions are female and the rows still empty will have male onions planted in them. Once they have grown they will be left to seed but only the seeds from the female plants will be harvested to produce seed stock. I know this because one of our good friends here in Raissac is in the farming and seed producing business. And here I thought an onion was an onion was an onion!


As well as the countryside the chateau too is becoming part of the autumn palette.
The ivy and creeper are turning from the vibrant summer green to a glorious array of red, yellow and orange. In a few weeks the 'rainfall of leaves' should start - it is quite a sight to see hundreds, if not thousands, of leaves falling off the vines. 






Another autumn sight are the chestnut trees. There are no edible chestnuts in the chateau grounds but the horse chestnuts are a beautiful colour ....of chestnut. Winter is the time for roasted chestnuts - such a yummy smell in the Christmas markets... and yummy to eat too.




Photos do not do justice to the colors of the countryside. It is so hard to capture all the shades that are there. The vastness of the countryside is also hard to capture.
But I do hope that this post will give you a little idea of all this autumn beauty we are so fortunate to be able to experience.



                       So from a very autumnal Raissac sur Lampy until the next time

Au revoir.

Tuesday, 2 October 2012

Oh, the places you can go ......

The part of France we are living in allows us to travel easily to places new and also allows us to revisit some of our favourite spots again.

Now that we have had a few friends from NZ to stay with us we have been able to revisit and show them some of the places that we loved from our last time here. We also have (and keep adding to) a list of 'places to see this time'. The list is quite long but we hope to get to at least some of the places on it. Hopefully we will be able to share these new places with you in future blogs.

Meantime...back to revisit towns and villages that we enjoyed the first time around.
And instead of lots of words I thought I'd make this blog a photo album with just a little explanation or comment. If you want to know more please let me know, Google it or come and see for yourself!

CARCASSONNE  (La Cite)  The walled city of Carcassonne dates back to the Middle Ages 
 and has been restored and is an UNESCO World Heritage site. 













Carcassonne at night is very pretty












FANJEAUX    A small hilltop village with magnificent views across the Laraugais towards     Raissac. Famous in the Middle Ages for being the home of St Dominic, the founder of the Dominican Order.

























SAISSAC   Up in the Montagne Noir (Black Mountains) that lie above Raissac is another  small town. Here there is a ruined castle that we think was built about the same time as the chateau here in Raissac. The Montagne Noir are undulating hills with very picturesque places.





The Langudoc-Rousillon region is the home to many ruins of Cathar castles.
The Middle Ages (1200-1300's) was a very bloody period of history in the south of France. It makes fascinating reading if you can bear the cruelty of man against fellow man. 

Here are a couple of Cathar ruins that we have revisited so far. 

LASTOURS    Not very far from Raissac in the Montagne Noir is Lastours (in Spanish ~ The  Towers). Here you can visit 4 castles on the same site.




But one of the most impressive Cathar castles is  PEREYPETUSE  that is to the south going towards the Pyrenees and towards Spain.  We spent an afternoon there with friends from NZ but wondered why we couldn't drive up to the car park. Since it was a Sunday and a beautiful day we thought it must have been full. But no....... this was the reason why!

It was still there when we finished our climb...and so were the cars and people who couldn't drive down!

Most Cathar castles are located on top of outcrops of rock that appear to be unassailable. When you think about the time in history they were built, the engineering and the associated logistics makes these buildings truly spectacular.




 While we were at Perypetuse this time we were fascinated by a paraglider who must have had a very quiet time floating above the castle ruins.

On the way up...still wondering why we couldn't park in the top car park


Another place that we visited a few times in 2009 was FOIX and we went back there again with other New Zealand friends. Foix is going south on the road to Andorra. As you drive towards it the Pyrenees loom closer and closer. Foix itself is on the confluence of two rivers  and is surrounded by hills with the mountains just beyond.

The red tile roofs of Foix




Overlooking the town is the CHATEAU DE 
 FOIX. This impressive chateau is in   excellent condition and has an interesting museum and models showing how the chateau was built in the 1300's.




















On this visit to Foix we made a trip to the GROTTE DE NIAUX (the Niaux Caves). In these caves are original cave drawings/paintings done 13,000 years ago! What is different about Niaux is that these are the original drawings , not facsimiles as in other sites around France. It is a privilege to be able to see these as who knows how long they will be open to the public before it is decided that the caves must be closed to preserve this piece of ancient history.

Understandably no photography is allowed but the entrance to the caves itself is quite spectacular.


Each group is guided and there are no more than 20 people in the group. Our tour was in French (the only tour in English was full) so we did not get full appreciation of what was said. However the natural interior of the caves is impressive in itself and walking a kilometre or so into the side of a mountain is an experience. Much of the tunnel network is not open to the public and apparently there are numerous sites of drawings not able to be viewed. The last viewing point, Le Salon Noir, holds the most awesome drawings. To start everyone has to turn off their torches and it is so dark, so black and so silent. Then the guide turns on his lamp and there on the wall in front of you is the artwork of some person who lived 13,000 years ago. It is very hard to describe one's initial reaction. It is also hard to grasp the concept of 13,000 years ago. Think when the Great Migration to NZ was...our history is so young!


This is a banner at the entrance to La Grotte. It depicts cave drawings from different sites around France. The bison in black centre right is one from Niaux. Only bison, ibex, horses and deer have been drawn. No people, no dogs, no birds. Little is known about the artists of Niaux or why they drew what they did or in fact why they drew. It is thought that they didn't live in the caves and that the caves could have been a spiritual place. Whatever happened in Niaux 13,000 years ago, it is an incredible place to visit.

And on that note I'll finish. The subject of the next post? Je ne sais pas!

Thursday, 30 August 2012

First Impressions ~ the second time around

Our return to France had been played over in my mind for several months before the event. Would it be as new and unknown as before or would it be like returning to a place that one knows well - like coming home?

In 2008 we arrived in December - winter. In 2012 we arrived in August - summer.


Life is good
What a difference! The countryside in winter is brown; trees look dead; the sky grey and the temperature COLD.  In summer, the countryside is a patchwork of brown of ploughed and harvested fields; faded yellow of the sunflowers that will be harvested in the autumn; lush green of the vines with bunches of white or purple grapes; a countryside that has been baked by the sun for several months. And it is HOT!


The drive from Toulouse down the peage (motorway) did seem like just another trip from the airport. Apart from having to remember that we are now in a righthand drive country and being very conscious of things being the other way around, it took David only this trip to feel comfortable about driving here. For me it will be a different story - having to drive a manual on the 'wrong side'.... no doubt this may well be a blog subject .... we will see! 
View from top garden

Arrival at the Chateau was , as it always is, special. This time not a feeling of 'WOW!'(and mouth open), but more 'this IS a special place' (and the feeling of thankfulness to be able to come back). Last time the chateau was wearing its winter coat. This time the green ivy is covering all the walls and is a contrast to the brown of the lawn and some of the plants in the garden. The heat of the summer showing in the wilted and dried flower heads.


Now that we are settled in, having spent the first two weeks in the Petite Maison while guests of the owners were staying, it is beginning to feel like we have come home. The wish to be able to share everything about this place with family and friends is as strong as it was last time. Hence the camera/iPhone comes with us most places - just in case there is something we think special to capture - not just for ourselves but to be able to share with others.


We haven't ventured too far afield yet but where we have gone (supermarket , our favourite sports shop, the post office...) it is all very familiar. I can hear some of you saying "what about the market?" which is one of our favourite places to go. The first Wednesday we were here...and really looking forward to going....it was a public holiday! The next week....we had no car! It was in being serviced and having 'une petite probleme' fixed!! So when we do get to the market it will be a much looked forward to occasion.


Morning walks around Raissac and environs became a part of Liz's daily routine last time. And it is becoming so again but now it is nous deux. We are in awe of the magnificent vistas that one can see as well as enjoying the differences between here and home or the differences between city and country life. It is certainly easier to get up and out here (at least while the weather is warm) than it sometimes is at home. There is nothing to disturb one's train of thought - no traffic besides maybe one, perhaps two cars; no people or when there is there is always the friendly Bonjour - nothing..... just the sound of your own footsteps and heavy breathing at times from the unfit one!

Looking across sunflower fields 



Here are some of the views we are lucky
enough to see on our walks....

Different views of Raissac 

Next time perhaps we will have been further afield and will have some tales to tell...till then a bientot nos amis

Sunday, 19 August 2012

Enroute

It's a long way from Auckland to Raissac sur Lampy...so...rather than flying business or first class we stayed a few days enroute in San Francisco. 
We have visited SF a number of times so it was not a new destination for us but there were some places we wanted to see. The Rock was one, but unfortunately all trips to Alcatraz were booked out until late August so it is on the 'still to see' list.

We did get out to Sonoma and Napa Valleys - the heart of California winemaking. 
With breakfast provided onboard a limo coach along with a glass of mimosa (similar to a buck fizz) we travelled for an hour or so north of San Francisco to Sonoma. On the way we stopped and looked for the Golden Gate bridge.

San Francisco's famous fog was alive and well. But once over the bridge - a change in temperature and lots of hot sunny weather. 

First stop was in Sonoma Valley...and the first wine testing of the day at 10am! Beautiful country, much reminiscent of NZ countryside in mid January, brown, dry with haymaking in progress. However the vineyards are oases of verdant green.
Sonoma is a small town of about 8000 people. Small and very pretty with shops set out around a park-like square. Sonoma is the little cousin to Napa which we didn't get to.
By the way we didn't partake of wine here but instead settled for a very nice latte at an aptly named Cafe Basque (or something like that).

Lunch was a picnic affair at another winery. All very pleasant before we moved onto our last stop - wines to taste plus a sculpture garden to wander around.





David enjoying lunch - no wine provided!

Liz in the BIG chair - a challenge for short legs










        


 Some interesting works....





After a day in the heat of Sonoma and Napa Valley it was a pleasant change to return to the cool of San Francisco. In fact it seemed colder than Auckland when we went out each evening for dinner. Not warm and balmy at all.


The remainder of our visit was done on foot. The following are a little of what we saw.

China Town - reminded us of Singapore


Took a walk along the Embacardero




Had to visit Pier 39


San Francisco fog by night

My favorite artwork that was in Union Square

After four days it was time to catch another silver bird - this time to Toulouse via Frankfurt.

Au revoir San Francisco.